Kwaaihoek

Between Bushman's River Mouth and Boknes in the Eastern Cape there is a rocky peninsula that juts into the Indian Ocean. This place is called Kwaaihoek. Directly translated from Afrikaans this means "Angry Corner", but in context it means "Windy Corner". The top plato of Kwaaihoek does get its fair share of wind, but around the base you can get relieve from both the westerly and easterly winds that occur in the Eastern Cape.

It is on wind still days though when Kwaaihoek really becomes a paradise. The best time by far is to be there at low-tide because then you will find the tidal pools exposed. You will not believe how colourful these pools can get. Especially if the water is clear. You will see fish, anemones and other marine creatures of all shapes, sizes and colours. Most of the pools are quite shallow, so you don't even have to get your feet wet. If it is a sunny day, the water trapped in the pools gets heated and is often several degrees warmer than the ocean. This makes them ideal for swimming in specially if you don't like cold water.

You will also find various marine birds hunting & searching for food in the tidal pools or on the rocks. Look out for the endangered red-billed oystercatcher. Drivers of 4x4 vehicles are responsible for the endangerment of these birds; the birds lay their eggs on the same stretch that 4x4 drivers typically use. Fortunately this kind of 4x4 driving has been outlawed in the last couple of years. And the oystercatchers seem to be responding well.

On the right day Kwaaihoek also offers some superb scuba diving opportunities. There are lots of navigable gullies that you could spot some surprisingly large fish like mussel-crackers, galjoen & stumpnoses. These gullies aren't too deep so they are relatively safe, but as with all diving anything can happen and you shouldn't do this lightly.

Because you can no longer drive on the beaches, to get there you need to walk from Bushmans (about 3km) or Boknes (about 6km). Don't let this put you off though. It is a beautiful coastline and its quite possible to spot dolphins and if you're very lucky whales.

Some things to take note of when visiting:

• Be very careful on the rocks at Kwaaihoek; they can be very sharp and you can easily hurt yourself. A pair of old trainers are highly recommended. Even the seasoned locals always wear at least some sort of foot gear.


• Don't underestimate the sun. The reflection of the water intensifies the sun, so make sure you have adequate sun protection.

All in all Kwaaihoek can be very stimulating and is definitely one of the Treasures of the Eastern Cape.

More photos of Kwaaihoek

Shamwari Game Reserve

The Shamwari Game Reserve is a true treasure of the Eastern Cape! This private game reserve has 20 000 hectares (49000 acres) of unspoilt Eastern Cape verdant bush to explore. It was started by a local entrepreneur as well. One of its biggest selling points is that the Eastern Cape is malaria free, unlike most of the better known Game Reserves in South Africa or indeed Africa.

Something that I really like about the good folks at Shamwari is that they have a true & responsible conservation policy (see my article on false conservation). So much so that they have received numerous international awards, including the World's Leading Conservation Company and Game Reserve for five consecutive years.

Shamwari is situated along the Bushmans River, halfway between Port Elizabeth (45 minutes drive outside the city) and Grahamstown, a pleasant drive from Cape Town, forming a natural extension to the famous Garden Route.

To quote from their site: "Shamwari is about conserving a vanishing way of life and is the realisation of one man's dream, and the success of many people's passion. Steeped in Settler history, and dating back to the time when a multitude of game roamed wild and free, the 20 000 hectare reserve boasts five eco-systems, thus enabling the support of many forms of plant, animal and bird life. This is the ultimate African adventure and conservation effort coupled with responsible tourism."

One thing to realise though before you even consider Shamwari, is that this experience doesn't come cheap!

Check for accommodation at Shamwari.

Supertubes for Surfing

Supertubes at Jeffreys Bay is probably known better outside of South-Africa than inside! This is a small stretch of Eastern Cape coastline at Jeffreys Bay with arguably the best right-hand point waves on the face of the planet. Every year in the South African winter some world's best known surfers like Kelly Slater arrive at Jeffreys Bay to compete for the Billabong Pro Supertubes trophy. See the photos.

Obviously this is a very busy time, but during the rest of the year Supertubes is relatively quiet. You can watch some of the local surfers strut their stuff as well. This is an especially nice spot to take surfing photos.

For nature lovers, you will also frequently see dolphins swimming up and down this part of the Eastern Cape.